Local Talent - Eleanor Hopkins

I recently caught up with Callendar based climbing machine Eleanor Hopkins. This extremely talented young athlete is one of the most exciting prospects within British competition climbing at the moment. Even though she is still relatively new to the sport, she has worked hard and is now competing at the highest level. Eleanor recently won the British Team trials in youth c category (which she still has two full years left to compete in), beating an extremely experienced and competitive field on her way to doing so. It is also worth noting here that the final route in her category, which Eleanor came very close to on-sighting, was graded 7c/7c+. This bodes well for competing internationally in the future, as these are the kind of grades she will be coming up against in her category.

Keep an eye out for this talented young lady, as she has all the potential and professional approach to her training required to step up to the international stage. I'm just looking forward to 6 years down the line when she will start doing battle with her idol in the senior category! I think a certain climbing super star will be pretty nervous about that prospect!


How old are you and how long have you been climbing?

I’m 13 years old (14 in April) and have been climbing for 3 years this Christmas.

How did you get involved in climbing?

I first got involved in climbing at an October Kids Camp at Callander (near Stirling), I tried out the wall and I was hooked, So my dad learned to belay and I got my first pair of climbing shoes and harness at Christmas. I started to go about once a week but became a bit more serious when I joined The Young Explorers of Scotland climbing and activity group and then went to my first competition.

What made you want to try competition climbing?

The second round of YCS wall was at my local wall so I went along, not really knowing what to expect and came 2nd, a couple of weeks later I went the third round and overall came 3rd. That meant that I had qualified for the British Final held at Ratho and from then on started to do more and more competitions and got more involved in the sport.

You recently won the British Team Trials/selection Competition, How did this feel?

It is the most amazing feeling when you know you have climbed to the best of your ability and all your hard work has paid of! I am very pleased and happy with my result and would like to thank my coaches for all the help they gave me.

You train more professionally than any climber I have seen. Could you give us a brief run down of how you train?

I train 6 times a week with one rest day:
Monday: At home, strength circuits and rowing machine circuits
Tuesday: Climbing at Ratho
Wednesday: At home, strength circuits
Thursday: Climbing on home board
Friday: Rest day
Saturday: Strength and Conditioning Training at Herriot Watt University. Climbing at Ratho
Sunday: Climbing at Ratho

What would you say your strengths are?

Crimps, steep walls and training.

What would you say your weaknesses are?

Very powerful moves, slopers and dynos (but getting better!).

Have you climbed outdoors?

Only a couple times, twice at Malham and once at Benny Begg, on my first trip to Malham I managed to red-point my first route ever, Frankenstein 7a+.

Which competitor inspires you most from the British Junior competition circuit?

Natalie Berry

Which competitor inspires you most from international competition circuit?

Natalie Berry

What are your future ambitions (short term & long term)?

My short term ambitions are to do more outdoor climbing and compete at the EYS and Worlds, and my long term ambition is to qualify for the final in an EYS and on-sight an 8a outside.

What advice would you give to any young climbers reading this, who are thinking of taking up competitive climbing?

Climbing is an amazing sport at any age or level and if you are thinking about taking part in competition definitely go for it! Have a good time and give it your all but don’t be disappointed if you slip or fall, when I went to the British Finals the first time I came 27th and the following year I came 1st equal. Just remember to always stay motivated and set yourself goals that you can achieve and give it everything you’ve got! Always have a good time and enjoy what you’re doing.

Scottish Youth Bouldering Championships 2010

Hi Folks,

Invites are on thier way out shortly by e-mail and snail mail for SYBC10 to all qualified competitors (remember top 5 in each age/sex group from YCS09) but just in case there's any doubt here's the definitive list of competitors, so you know what's coming!

Scotland North


Nikki Addison
Sofie Hvide
Dawn Longworth
Lauren Sandbach
Jessie Smith
Ellen Macaskill
Ellen Barber
Abbey Niven
Sarah Wardrope
Rebecca Kinghorn
Amy Ryan
Keri MacLennan
Rosie Slater
Caera Douglas
Ruairidh Macaskill
Scott Donaldson
Jamie Peden
Joseph MacInnesHall
Dylan MacKenzie
Steven Addison
Calum Irvine
Rhys Maslen
Alasdair Johnstone
Leakey Sam
Stephen Dent
George Kerr
Henry Kerr
Scott Robertson
Rory Cargill

Scotland South


Rebekah Drummond
Eleanor Hopkins
Lyndsey Forsyth
Rachel Carr
Sophie Stanistreet
Jaime Davidson
Abigail Blunt
Christie MacLeod
Abi Beautyman
Ashley Lawne
Claudia Charlwood
Kirsten Taylor
Rachel Tennant
Gabriella Stewart
Elle Hogarth
Alexander Bosi
William Bosi
Euan King
Michael Burrell
Angus Davidson
Gregory Gaughan
Calum Forsyth
Jamie Drummond
Andrew Barr
Alasdair Darroch
Robert Davidson
Jason McDonald
Harry Spence-McCarthy
Jamie Blair

The competition will take place at Extreme Dream Aviemore Saturday 16th January 2010. More details going out with invites and reggy forms etc..

Lets get ready to rumble!!

Al

Crushing Dunkeld

I spent last Thursday Friday at upper cave climbing on remarkably dry rock, considering it was pouring down both days. I was joined for a sports climbing sessions by super strong British Team Kids - Jonny 'always moaning' Field, Natalie 'Fajita Wrapper' Berry and Robbie 'man sized power scream' Philips. Robby had already ticked everything at the crag, so was psyched to just get some training in on the rock. Nat and Jonny, however both had their eyes on ticking some of the local classics.

As always with these two, I was blown away with how easy they made everything look. Nat climbed here briefly when she was about 2 and a half & Jonny had never tried any of the climbs before! They started off by making light work of Hammish Teds, both flashing (Nat Retro)it with ease. Nat had tried the route about 56 years ago, but could remember nothing about it. They then moved on to the crag classic - Marlena. Nat got very close to flashing this route, cruising the technical crack section only to be denied the flash on the last move across to the chains. She then swiftly dispatched it with ease on her 2nd go. Next was Jonny 's go and he didn't disappoint! He made swift work of the crack section and after some aggressive snatching up the presses near the top he found him self clipping the chains. Not bad effort flashing your first 7c at 15. Especially considering the technical nature of the climb!



The 2nd day was spent on Silk Purse with both Nat and Jonny making good progress. Both look like they will tick the route next time they visit. We then finished off with some bouldering action at the base of the crag.



Finally I was treated to some rather unusual chat on the journey home. The 3 youth spent 50minutes (yes that's 50 minutes!) playing a word game that basically consisted of them speaking, but replacing the first letter of each word with a B. I spent 45 minutes testing my will power as I resisted the temptation to drive in to on coming trucks, just to make them stop! I am sure when I was a teenager, I had more interesting things on my mind than word games!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ross Kirkland - Putting EYS fitness to good use

After competing in the Edinburgh round of the European Youth Series (EYS), Edinburgh based climber - Ross Kirkland joined myself and Adam Hughes on a short trad trip to Northumberland and the Peak. Ross Kirkland is 16 years of age and has been performing well on the British Junior Competition circuit for well over 8 years now, achieving some great results along the way like 2nd place in 2008 Team Trials and 8th in his first ever Senior British Lead Climbing Championships. This consistency lead to his selection in 2008 to the British Junior Climbing Team, thus allowing him to go on and represent his country in international climbing competitions.

Away from competition, Ross's other main climbing passion is trad climbing and he had been looking forward to putting some of the fitness gained through training for the EYS to good use on the rock. It has to be said though that bouldering is not one of Ross's strengths and he was curious to see how he would cope on the short powerful styles of climb found in Northumberland and the peak.

He need not have worried, as he took every thing in his stride and ticked his way through a very impressive selection of routes over the three days. The trip started off with a day at Back Bowden climbing with other Ratho instructors Pamela, Martin and Ally. Ross swiftly warmed up on the 'Arches' HVS 5a, then went on to solo the short and crimpy wall of 'Pin-Up' E2 6a. Ross stated that he really enjoyed both of these climbs, but was keen to attempt something a bit more challenging. Time for 'Lost Cause' E4 6b, a safe but brutally powerful and committing County Classic! If I am to be honest I thought Ross would struggle with the powerful nature of this climb! How wrong could I have been, with Ross making swift work of flashing it and even stopping mid route to remove his sweater (poser!). This was Ross's first E4 and was climbed in great style. Adam also had a great day climbing the 'Tube Direct' E5 5c, 'Lost Cause' & 'Uncouth Youth' E4 6a, all of which, Ross seconded. Ross finished off the day seconding me up the crags classics of 'on the Verge' and 'Right to Reply', both of which he cruised.

The second day saw us descend on Frogatt, keen to keep up the momentum of the successful first day. Ross had decided that he wanted to spend the day getting in some lower grade mileage. So he started off with a swift on sight of 'Strapiombante' E1 5b. His ideas for the day soon changed when he sat watching myself and Adam flailing our way up the huber Classic 'Stapadictomy' E5 6b. Realising it was safe, Ross decided to strap it on and give it a go. After a valiant flash attempt Ross dispatched the route ground up in good controlled style. Bearing in mind this is the boys' first real trip to the grit, this is a phenomenal achievement. Especially when you consider that he climbed his first E3 in June earlier this year. Ross basked in his glory and chilled out seconding Adam and myself on routes for the rest of the day.

We were joined on the final day by trad wad Tony Stone. Ross opted on a more chilled out session. Spending the morning bouldering around and climbing easier routes up to a grade of HVS. He rounded off the day with some exciting spotting duties while Tony on sight soloed the classic Pebble Mill E5 6b. Followed by seconding Adam Hughes' impressive lead of the same route. Sadly I didn't enjoy the same pleasure, managing to turn in to a gibbering wreck on the same climb, when I couldn't reach the final break, resulting in a rather feeble opt out for a safety line, much to the amusement of young Rosco! I will never forget looking down in a panic to see young Rosco rolling around on his back in hysterics. Loving how supportive my climbing partners are!!!!!

I was truly humbled by just how well young Ross performed on the trip, to tick E5 ground up on his first real trip to the grit is good going. I am sure there will be more big trad ticks to come from this young lad in the future.

For more Pics check out Adam's Blog

http://www.hughesmountaineering.blogspot.com

Local Talent - Glasgow Paul

I first met young Paul Williamson ('Glasgow Paul') around 4 years ago, when he came along to our Saturday BRYCS club. It was very apparent from day one that he already had 2 of the most important traits required to succeed in climbing – 1. a determination to push himself, and 2. mutant strong fingers!

Paul has progressed through the ranks as a climber over the last few years with some impressive results in regional, national and international competitions. Five years on he is very much established him self as one of the most talented and promising young climbers on the British Competition Circuit.

Paul's talents don't stop at just plastic pulling either. Ever since a very successful first outdoor climbing trip to Orpierre in 2006, he has gone on to tick some very impressive climbs throughout Scotland, Britain and Europe. He is now also very much established as a member of the 'west coast dumby squad' and is well on his way to maintaining the Dumbarton tradition of pushing Scottish bouldering standards forward to new levels. Just a pity he is a Celtic fan!

Achievements to date:
2009 Scottish Lead Climbing Championship
2009 Represented Britain in European Youth Series and the Youth World Cup
4th 2008 British Lead Climbing Championships
2008 Was awarded full team status on the British Climbing Team
Multiple F7c red-points in France and in the UK
7B+ on-sights in France and in the UK
V8 boulders in the UK

Future Ambitions:
to climb in the Buttermilks in California
hopefully do some pretty hard boulder problems
to climb F8c one day (maybe at Dumbuck?)
to climb the Overlee project, (V very hard!?!)




Paul has recently been selected to represent Britain in the up and coming Kranj round of the European Youth Series. Good luck dude and get stuck in!

Thanks MCofS!

This year saw 4 very successful youth climbing development events take place at EICA Ratho. These events were designed to support and motivate young Scottish climbers of all ages and abilities. As well as promoting participation pathways into the sport at all levels. These events could not have taken place without the support of the Mountaineering Council of Scotland (MCofS), who provided funding to assist with the organisational and operational costs of running these events. They also assisted with the expenses cost of volunteers assisting on these days.

This continued commitment from the MCofS to supporting Youth Climbing within Scotland is very much appreciated by all of the kids, parents and volunteers, who benefit. As a coach, instructor and volunteer, who gains a lot from being involved in such initiatives, I believe that the level of enthusiasm and standard of climbing on display from young climbers in our country is truly inspiring. The MCofS is largely responsible for helping these young climbers through providing a network of support (i.e. coaching, competition, outdoor/indoor instruction and information).

2009 Mountaineering Council of Scotland Youth Development Event Details

Event 1 – Young Climbers Introduction to On-sighting (26.04.09)



Aims of Event
- To offer coaching and assistance to young climbers, who want to develop their route reading and on-sight climbing skills.
- To create more awareness of the sport & generate interest in what can be achieved in climbing.
- To show current pathways in place to assist young people in becoming more active within climbing

This day was a huge success with 3 separate work shops taking place aimed at supporting climbers from entry climber level, through to national competition climber.

The day started with a 4 hour mock competition for Scottish Based British Team members and young Scottish climbers on the MCofS Scottish Climbing Team. These talented climbers spent time practising the skills required for route mapping and putting this knowledge into practise on the wall. As a coach, it was truly humbling to watch the standard of young climber Scotland has to offer at the moment.

The afternoon activities were split into two separate sessions with British/Scottish Team members staying back to provide coached sessions on route reading to Youth Climbing Series climbers and Quick-draw volunteers offering introduction to climbing sessions to beginners.

Every climber to attend the event was given information about ways in which they can access outdoor climbing sessions, through initiatives like ‘MCofS Real Rock’ and
‘Adventure Edinburgh’.

Event 2 – Young Climber’s Introduction Demonstrations & Flash Based Climbing in Competitions (14.06.09)



Aims of Event
- To help prepare young Scottish climbers for this years 2009 Youth Climbing Series finals.
- To create more awareness in the activity and generate interest in what can be achieved within the sport.
- To show current pathways in place to assist young people in becoming more active within climbing.

This was a great day for every one who attended. Again the days activities were split into three workshops catering for complete beginners, Youth Climbing Series Climbers and National Competition level climbers!

The day started with a Mock Youth Climbing Series(YCS) competition for all of the young Scottish climbers representing their region at this years’ final. This event was also attended by various other YCS competitors from throughout Britain that wanted to test their skills against the Scottish youth! British Junior team members were on hand to offer tips and advice on competing to all of the youngsters.

The afternoon consisted of two sessions; with British & Scottish junior team members taking part in a workshop looking at gaining helpful information from watching route demonstrations. Top British competition climber- Alan Cassidy was on hand to demonstrate the routes and also offer tips on watching and learning from demos.

The mobile climbing Tower was also on hand throughout the afternoon to offer complete beginners the chance to try climbing. These future young climbers were also given the opportunity to observe the top level competition climbers in action and draw inspiration from what can be achieved in the sport!

Again every climber to attend the event was given information about ways in which they can access outdoor climbing sessions, through initiatives like ‘MCofS Real Rock’ and ‘Adventure Edinburgh’.

Event 3 – Introduction to Climbing – Summer School (04.07.09)



Aims of event
- To offer a full day of free climbing activities, aimed at introducing young people to the joys of climbing.
- To increase awareness of pathways into the sport through indoor climbing centres, Adventure Edinburgh and MCofS.

This event consisted of 3 climbing based workshops aimed at introducing novice climbers to bouldering, top roping and abseiling. These sessions were ran by EICA instructors and MCofS volunteers. Resident British Team Member Ross Kirkland was also on hand to offer encouragement and top tips to the kids throughout. The 30 youngsters that attended the event were also given the opportunity to attend a lecture & video by Pamela Miller on ‘Life beyond the Climbing Wall’.

Every new climber also received a goodie bag stuffed full of free gifts and information on climbing walls throughout Scotland, coaching programs at Glasgow climbing Centre, EICA: Ratho, Alien Rock, Extreme Dream, Avertical World and Inverness Climbing Centre, as well as initiatives such as Adventure Edinburgh and MCofS Real Rock sessions.

Event 4 –European Youth Series (EYS) Preparation Event (06.09.09)



Aims of event
- To prepare British competitors for the Edinburgh EYC. This takes place on 19th 20th September 2009.
- To create more awareness of competition sport climbing and generate interest in what can be achieved in the activity at international level.

This event was attended by all 34 British Team members representing the United Kingdom in this year Edinburgh Leg of the European Youth Series. MCofS and British Team coaches were on hand to run workshops on warming up within competition, dealing with isolation, watching demonstrations, route mapping and preparing your self mentally & physically. The event also consisted of a mock run through of an EYS, providing the competitors with valuable competition experience and time on the new competition wall at EICA:Ratho. Hopefully this day has played a part in helping our country’s young climbing super stars for their big day.

Running in conjunction with this event were reduced cost mobile tower slots and introduction to climbing sessions, ran by MCofS volunteers. New climbers were also provided with information packs and encouraged to watch the top British climbers in action throughout the day.


All of these events have been great fun for the 100’s of young climbers and numerous volunteers involved! Hopefully some valuable tips, advice and motivation has been passed on along the way too! Again a massive thanks has to be made to the Mountaineering Council of Scotland for making these events possible!

footwork tips

The first and must important part of achieving good climbing technique is learning to use our feet effectively. We hear lots of people saying certain climbers have good footwork, but what does it actually mean?

In my opinion the two most important factors of good footwork are;
1.) Being able to place your feet quickly and precisely.
2.) Being able to transfer your weight over your feet.

1.) Be quick and precise:
When we are placing our feet we should be aiming to use the front of our rock boot as much as possible. This means the inside edge, outside edge and the front point! This allows us to be precise with our foot placements when standing on smaller holds, allows us to twist and turn when climbing by simply pivoting on our feet, and minimises the chance of our feet slipping off.
Using this part of our feet also allows us to gain more force and height from the foot placement. Think about how your foot works when jumping, you flex your feet and push off from your toes. Its the same principle when flexing your foot to stretch for a distant climbing hold or flexing your foot when powering up for that dyno! Obviously, we also have to learn when it is appropriate to heel hook or toe hook (usually of very steep ground), but the majority of foot placements should be made as above.

How do we improve this?
It may sound simple, but looking at your feet when you place them helps. Make a conscious effort to look at the foot hold, and place your foot exactly where you are looking. If you are clumping around with your feet, banging them off the wall each time you place them or hoping about on a foot hold to readjust, you are wasting valuable energy when you climb. The easiest way I have found to practise this is to think really hard about it when you are climbing easy warm up climbs, slow down and really concentrate on placing your feet quietly in control. As you improve at this, begin to attempt climbing these routes quicker, but still be precise and controlled with your feet placements. Over time this will improve your footwork on all of your climbs. Another training tip I have for improving this is to attempt climbing boulder problems in the EICA: Ratho arena using features only for feet. This will help you learn how to trust standing on small holds, it will help you improve your judgement with foothold selection and it will also help build up core strength as keeping your feet on small holds when climbing steeper problems requires a lot of body tension!.

2.) Transferring your weight over your feet:
Spend time during your next session watching a really good climber on a route up our main lead wall. As they move up the wall you will see them transfer their body from side to side or twist their whole body each time they reach for a hold! The climber is doing this so that they can move their weight over the foot that they are pushing off, thus moving in the most efficient way. If your weight is over your foot when you push up on it, you use far less pulling energy in your arms! A really good climber to observe doing this is Nat Berry, as she is phenomenal at this technique in climbing. Her amazing level of flexibility in her hips, allows her to transfer her weight over any foothold regardless of how awkwardly placed they are!

How do we improve this? This is a really important skill to master, as the whole point of good technique is 'minimising the amount of energy used in our arms' ! The less energy we use in our arms, the longer we can climb on a route before we get tired. Learning to transfer our weight over our feet makes us more efficient at how we use our feet and reduces the strain on our arms, thus making us more technical climbers.
The best way I have found to practise this technique is to spend time on the slab areas in the wall. Practice climbing the routes with one hand, but really concentrate on getting the upward motion from your legs!. If you have to pull with your hand to make a move, stop and think about your feet and body position, then try again. Once you have mastered this, make things harder for yourself by attempting these climbs with no hands. You can place your hands flat against the wall, but you are not allowed to touch any of the holds. It is impossible to achieve this without transferring your weight over your feet!

Finally start experimenting with how we can use twisting to help us transfer our weight over our feet. Again use the slab area to begin with. Force yourself to only use the outside edge of your climbing shoe, in order to do this you will have to twist your whole body round each time you stand up on a foot. An easy way to think about it is to say to yourself - 'if I am standing up on my right foot I have to twist to face left, if i am standing up on my left foot I have to twist to face the right'!

Spend a bit of time each session concentrating on practising good footwork and you will become very good at using your feet. Remember, there is more to being good at climbing than just getting fitter and stronger! If we don't move well when we are climbing we are not going to climb to our full potential!